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Lamplighter Hills II – The creature that started it all

Lamplighter Hills II – The creature that started it all

To start my AoS28 project, the Lamplighter seems to be a fitting first model and even though I haven’t decided on a certain ruleset yet (more about that in my next post), this model will be and has to be included in every iteration of the warband I might come up with.

Consequently I share my creative process with you while I wait for my ordered bitz to arrive and possibly get some input on my choice of parts. 😉

Face

The Lamplighter’s face is the conversion’s first obstacle. Combining a high forehead, tiny eyes, flat teeth and a missing nose is somewhat of a challenge to recreate with original parts – although I don’t have to worry about the hairstyle. 😄

One of my best bets seems to be the Daemonette Alluress‘ head with removed hair and a minor nose-job. Maybe I also have to underfill her cheeks as they seem a little bit too hollow compared to the artwork.^^°

Hair

Fortunately GW released heads for AoS with long flowing hair as I find hair really difficult to sculpt with green stuff (especially if it’s not fully attached to the model but hanging in the air).

The Sylvaneth Tree-Revenant heads are also not attached to their hair pieces which saves me from a lot of cutting and sanding to get rid of their pretty faces. 😈

Upper body

My first idea for the Lamplighter’s body was to simply use some Electro-Priests I got from a trade, but the overall model would look really tiny – especially compared to its upcoming enforcer. It should be the warband’s centrepiece and that position dictates a certain size.

While I’ve found the “legs” to go for (see below), the final torso choice will have to wait until I can measure the needed waist. Probably two Kairic Acolytes will to the trick, as I have to put half a torso on top of the other one to fit the artwork.

Lower Body

After dismissing my initial idea for the body, I stumbled across an eBay auction for a Tech-Priest Dominus in the wrong category. I’ve always wanted that model for my Mechanicum and won the auction for next to nothing.

Most of the Dominus’ parts will go to my 30k force, but the lower body will be used for the Lamplighter conversion.

I’ll replace all the cables with chains where applicable or simply remove them as well as these small metal feet. Or shall I just leave the crawling apparatus intact instead of going for the footless look? 😕

Lanterns

With a total of seven lanterns in three different designs needed for the Lamplighter I browsed through the various bitz shops on my search for illumination, but all the AoS and WHFB lanterns look very different compared to those on the artwork.

Therefore I will probably have to build lanterns out of cardboard or plasticard, unless someone comes up with some spiky lantern bitz.^^

Candles

Regardless that you can get a ton of different candles from various kits and also from some third party suppliers, these are really easy to make from scratch (there are also tons of tutorials available, be it with tubes, wire or toothpicks).

Also I would’ve needed to sculpt the wax on the hands anyway, so I’ll just make my own candles using a mix of the linked tutorials.

Torch

The Lamplighter’s final part is its torch, which somehow doesn’t fit the lanterns and overall metal details. Instead of just a burning stick of wood I think that a torch with metal base like from the Hurricanum would be way more fitting.

Additionally the final model might be somewhat hunched due to the Tech-Priest part, which might favour a staff with torch head in place of a regular torch – what do you think? 🙂


So much for my conversion thoughts for the Lamplighter, next step is to get my hands on all the required bitz.

Maybe you got some ideas for the “missing” parts or other input regarding the model – as always input of all kinds is highly appreciated. 😄

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Posted by on 14. May 2017 in AoS28, Specialist Games

 

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Taking souls, eating psykers

Taking souls, eating psykers

Inspired by a post in the Heralds of Ruin Facebook group, I wanted to try an Officio Assassinorum kill team, especially with a Culexus assassin. Lacking a model for the assassin I decided to kitbash my own version and found myself drawn into the Mechanicus part of my bitz collection.

So the choice was an easy one – it had to be a tech-assassin, suitable to be used as a Culexus for HoR & regular 40k as well as making an appearance as a Malagra Magos Prime in 30k or even some other flavour of ‘nasty’ in our Inq28 games. 😀

Mixing Dark Eldar and Cult Mechanicus parts I tried to re-create a classic villain pose (milking the giant cow) for the model which worked really well along with the Talos’ gigantic hands. I most certainly spent more time dry-fitting the various parts including several that weren’t used in the end than with building the actual model.^^

In the end the Talos weapon worked really well with the chain ring to resemble an artificial version of the official assassin’s animus speculum. Also I found a use for at least one the ten built electro priests I got through a trade which just gathered dust ever since. Additionally I had an excuse to use my tube tools again to fill the robes with cables after I had to cut the damaged feet off.

Overall I’m pretty pleased with the finished model and at least could turn my sleepless night (thank you, noisy neighbours…) into something productive. 🙂

 
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Posted by on 23. March 2017 in Dark Mechanicum, Heralds of Ruin, Inq28

 

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Cardboard tank tutorial

Cardboard tank tutorial

While showing my recent cardboard vehicles in various Facebook groups, I received a lot of requests for a tutorial on how to make these models and here it is. 😀

For this tutorial I created another Grot Tank, based on the Grot Tank Kommanda shown before, but with some differences to avoid ending up with the same model twice.

Preparations

Needed equipment:

  • Cardboard (any cornflakes box will do just fine)
  • Super glue / PVA glue
  • Pins with metal head (you can get them cheap at variety stores)
  • Scissors
  • Crafting knife
  • Tank bitz
  • Templates

Templates:

You can find many good templates on the internet or just make your own. I normally start with scribbling some possible shapes of the vehicle’s sides as these are the most distinct shapes. Once you found a shape you like, transfer it on a sheet of paper or directly onto cardboard and then add the necessary rectangles to get full template out of your side shape. I don’t add tabs to my templates, as you can add them free-handed when transferring the template onto cardboard. Now you should have something like this, the last one was used for the tutorial tank:

The chassis

Cutting out the tank’s template, bending and glueing the tabs gave me a basic shape to work with. The template left the bottom of the tutorial tank open. Sometimes it’s easier to leave gaps or even whole plates aside when assembling the chassis, just cut out a fitting plate and close the opening. 🙂

First armour layer

After the chassis is completed, the first layer of ramshackle armour has to be applied. This adds stability to the currently thin hull, conceals gaps or glueing mistakes and gives you a good base for additional layers. The first layer should match the outlines of the hull, so just place the chassis on some leftover cardboard and trace its outlines.

Tracks

Until now the chassis doesn’t look like that much, but the next step will help much for that – the tracks. I always use original tracks from various sources out of several reasons.

  • Tracks are difficult: They are highly detailed pieces and give not that little trouble to build them.
  • Cardboard limitations: To achieve the above detail, cardboard might not be the best material. You can achieve reasonable results with cardboard and toothpicks, but plasticard and tubes will be much more rewarding to work with.
  • Custom vs. original: A cardboard tank’s final look is strongly connected to the use of original parts. They diverse attention from less detailed areas and let the whole model look better among your grots.

I found some bogey wheels and tracks from old Imperial Guard tanks. After some cutting and a lot of dry-fitting the tutorial tank finally got its tracked propulsion. The tracks add a lot to the model’s bulk as well as enhance its overall look. But see for yourself. 🙂

Additional armour layers

To add more bulk and detail to the hull, just take some of your cardboard leftovers (there should be plenty on your desk by now), cut them into random shapes and glue them all over the chassis. 🙂 Just make sure to either leave enough space in the corners for your rivets, otherwise you will run into problems when drilling the rivet holes (which you can already see on these pictures). I also attached the turret’s mounting (25mm base with 3mm neodym magnet) to the chassis.

Engine

Every tank needs some kind of engine, for which I used leftovers from the Tank Kommanda’s cannons and added an exhaust pipe made out of brass and aluminium pipes. Use anything from your bitzbox that looks remotely like an engine block or even some kind of energy cells (in case your grots scavanged some Tesla cars for their tank project).

Turret

For turrets there are several approaches. You could use a template and build it from scratch, use pre-shaped things like bottle / paint pot caps or (if the tank will be bigger) even original turrets from GW. I chose the template approach and drew a turret based on the killa kan’s body. Unfortunately I didn’t compensate for the cardboard’s thickness (always advised for smaller parts like turrets), ending up with a slightly warped turret base. However, after adding some additional armour plates, the shape got better. Finally I threw a bunch of bitz and superglue at the turret to finish it. 😀

I used a Defiler flamer, a CSM turret hatch, CSM & Imperial Guard searchlight parts, half a CSM smoke launcher, Sentinel heavy flamer fuel tank and an antenna from the Icarus lascannon.

Rivets & glyphs

After drilling all these rivet holes, it’s now time to add a whole bunch of pin needles to the chassis. In some cases, you can easily stick the whole needle into the tank, for smaller parts you’ll have to trim them down a bit. This might take some time (the tutorial tank has 114 rivets…), but is worth the effort. Sometimes it’s necessary to attach some rivets earlier, if your additional parts (like the engine) would get in the way. To complete the tank cut out some orky glyphs out of your cardboard leftovers and distribute them over the hull.

Finished Tank

After a fine amount of time, the tutorial tank is finally finished and ready to get painted. It’s more compact than the Duck of Doom and way smaller than the Grot Tank Kommanda. Indeed, the skorcha turret is exchangeable with the the duck’s grotzooka turret thanks to the magnets. I hope this tutorial gave you some insight in my building process and may even inspire cardboard conversion of your own (and make sure to show some pictures, if you do so^^). The tutorial will probably receive some fine tuning in the future, if you have questions or miss something in it, just tell me in the comments. 🙂

 

 

 
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Posted by on 19. January 2017 in Heralds of Ruin, Tutorial, Warhammer 40k

 

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Pretty fly for an unpainted guy?

Pretty fly for an unpainted guy?

While working on my low-budget 1850 pts. Chaos Space Marine army (one big Favoured of Chaos formation + two Cyclopia Cabal formations) I needed a Daemon Prince of Nurgle – but it had to be both cheap and of course not looking cheap. My bitzbox was extremely helpful (as always) and provided a head + wings from my Plague Drone conversions as well as leftover Helbrute legs from my Dark Castellax. Arms and torso front were acquired during a 50% bitzsale nearly for free.

The groin had to be removed in order to get the Helbrute legs closer together and then all plastic parts except the wings were glued together to get the pose and general shape right. Afterwards I closed the back with some cardboard and started to sculpt the back with milliput, dry-fitting the wings several times during the process. Now the model only needs some boils and minor details / cleanup with green stuff before it gets its shoulder pads.

Working time aside, the Daemon Prince came at price of 2,50€ for the parts from bitsbay.it and about 7,50€ for parts from earlier projects. And 10€ for a nice and individual Daemon Prince definitely fits into “low-budget”. 😀

 
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Posted by on 30. December 2016 in Warhammer 40k

 

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More rebels for the revolution

More rebels for the revolution

After succeeding with my first cardboard vehicles, the “to-build-list” for my HoR kill team didn’t get that much shorter, so I went on. All of these still need more work, but I ran out of superglue. 😥

So I started with some of the gretchin footsloggers and realised that I had only taken one half of the gretchin sprues with me. Now I have to wait until after Christmas to build more of these nasty little greenskins.^^°

The Grot Tank came along easily, I used the leftover cannon from a Khador Heavy Warjack and saw only after assembling the whole model, that it’s basically a robo-duck. 😀
But at least a well-sized robo-duck, as you can see in the comparison shot with the Killa Kan.

Next up is a Mek Gun with kannon, based on an old Defiler cannon and an imperial dozer blade mounting again with more cardboard.

Last (and probably least according to the regular Ork) – the first three gretchins, one Ammo Runt with ‘More Dakka’ and two Grot Oilers or better welders.

 
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Posted by on 23. December 2016 in Heralds of Ruin

 

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Ramshackling to freedom

Ramshackling to freedom

After reading the Heralds of Ruin Kill Team rules for the Grot Rebels, I found myself with the urge to delve once again into scratchbuilding with cardboard. So I raided my cornflakes stash for some cardboard, added super glue, cheap pin needles from Woolworth and any suitable parts my bitzbox could offer to create my Grot Tank Kommanda and a peg-legged Killa Kan.

Years ago I started to build a cardboard Malcador, but never finished the project and didn’t work with cardboard ever since. It needs some experience to work with, but it’s a cheap and fun way to create orky vehicles while watching Netflix. 😀

The Tank Kommanda’s chassis is based on a grot tank template I found online. I printed and build the chassis without having any sizing guidelines, so whereas the spare Taurox’ tracks fit nicely, the tank got way too big for a regular grot tank. For the team leader an increased size seems manageable, but the regular tank needs to be a lot smaller. Nonetheless, I’m extremely satisfied with the overall look – with more ordered plates and without orky smbols, the tank would also fit in various imperial armies. 🙂

Doing a Killa Kan was a little more straightforward, as there are a lot of references and templates on the internet. The main issue with most of them where the legs and arms, so I defaulted on using existing bitz to distract again from the cardboard build. At first the lower back made some problems, but after getting some feedback in the HoR Facebook group, a small generator took the empty space.

 
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Posted by on 19. December 2016 in Heralds of Ruin

 

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Going big

Going big

Another project from my shelf is this Imperial Knight Paladin, which will serve as my House Dumas’ Troops choice (using the Horus Heresy rules – no formations, more fluff). The knight kit is fine to build, unless you make the silly decision to alter the legs’ pose. To lift the left foot just 3mm to get it on top of the basing material needed cutting in unpleasant angles and a lot of adjustments for the cables and pistons. What would have been wrong with making the legs with real joints like Tau and Eldar Walkers have them? :/

The arms took also quite a while, but that’s what I wanted, so no GW bashing here. The arms indeed have exactly the flexibility which the legs lack. 🙂

For the gun arm both weapon casings were glued together to get a weapon both long enough to reach with the other arm and big enough to legitimate it’s two-handed use. The barrel is magnetised to allow switching from Paladin spec to Errant or Warden. The destroyer chain bayonet added much to the weapon’s bulkiness and made the pose even more ridiculous bad-ass. 😀

Currently all the armour plates are missing as I don’t want to paint the knight fully glued together, but thus it has to wait in line on my ever-growing ‘to paint’ list.

 
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Posted by on 29. August 2016 in Horus Heresy, Warhammer 40k

 

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